HUEVOS RANCHEROS

Basics.  Fundamentals.  Boiling things down to their essential elements and building them up again.  

One of the most exciting aspects of my journey with food, nutrition and cooking in the past year has been home-making the basics: pantry staples that are so simple (and so much healthier) to create at home, but which I--like most others--had never considered could come from anywhere but the grocery store shelves.  I previously wrote about the overwhelming excitement and empowerment I felt the very first time I made nut butter from scratch.  The same is true of granola, salad dressings, sauces, and my latest love, homemade almond milk.  Choosing to tackle these gastronomic fundamentals in the kitchen rather than reaching for the (arguably more convenient) ready-made jar offers so many benefits, most exciting of which are heightened nutrition, direct agency, and boundless possibilities for creativity!

One of the most important aspects for me of homemaking pantry staples is that it grants me complete control over the freshness, type and quality of the ingredients I put into my body--not to mention eliminates my consumption of bizarro additives, unnecessary quantities of sugar, and unnatural preservatives.  Granola made with 'sugar', 'glucose syrup' and 'vegetable oil' immediately following 'oats'?  No thanks, I'll make my own with cold-pressed olive oil and 100% pure maple syrup.  Salsa that has been sitting in a container in a factory/on a plane/in a truck/on a shop shelf for who knows how long?  Nah, I'll whip some up that's truly salsa fresca.  By operating in this way, I am also voting with my dollars to support the foods that are real and whole rather than the processed food-like-substances (and the companies that produce them) which have overtaken our grocery baskets, our mainstream contemporary food culture, and our bodies.  It is truly so refreshing and empowering; I cannot encourage you enough to start the same process, if you haven't already.

In addition to the invaluable benefits of treating our bodies well and developing closer and more meaningful relationships with our food, homemaking pantry staples provides countless opportunities for creativity!  Food in its most whole and individual forms is like an artist's palate, offering so many flavors, textures and colors with which to play.  Oils and vinegars, nuts and seeds, fruit and veg, herbs and spices...oh the joy!  The experimentation!  The possibility! 

Ultimately, this ode to making the basics brings us to a very important place: Mexican food.  When a good friend and I decided to host an enchilada dinner party a few weeks ago, using store bought enchilada sauce simply wasn't an option.  We found an intriguing recipe, set out to the market (with our admittedly lengthy ingredients list), and tackled the enchiladas head on.  The sauce?  Silence-inducing.  For the first few bites, we spoke only through full mouths and shocked stares.  It was that good.

This recipe for huevos rancheros could be 'lunch in 15 minutes', but it's not.  I could easily list the ingredients as 'salsa', 'refried beans' and 'enchilada sauce', all of which you could effortlessly find readymade for you in jars at the market, but I don't.  Because, in addition to all the reasons I discussed above, the bold, fresh and incredible flavors that this recipe delivers are the product of making each of these elements from scratch.*  Yes, these huevos rancheros are a bit of a labor of love.  But let me tell you, they taste amazing for it!  Also, the most labor-intensive element of this process--the ranchero sauce--freezes incredibly well.  Make a big batch and you'll have it on hand for your next Mexican craving, whether that's summertime enchiladas to feed a crowd or a quick weeknight burrito bowl for one. 

*After all this proselytizing, I feel it is important to acknowledge that I did use store bought tortillas, canned black beans for the refried beans, and canned tomatoes for the ranchero sauce.  I definitely intend to give homemade tortillas a try next time, and I encourage you to do so if you have time!  Ditto for cooking the beans from dried.  But let's be real, the rest of this takes ample time.  Do what you can.  Any percentage of homemade goods is better than none at all!

Huevos Rancheros
Serves two, with leftover sauce

Ingredients
2 corn tortillas (look for proper no-additives tortillas, made with masa, water and salt)
2 eggs
olive oil or coconut oil for frying

Ranchero Sauce, minimally adapted from The Faux Martha
(I came across this sauce when making these undeniably delicious enchiladas from Sprouted Kitchen.  The sauce is flawless; a total keeper!)
25 oz. chopped tomatoes, canned
1 yellow onion, sliced
1 garlic clove
1/2 - 1 jalapeno, deseeded and sliced
3/4 tsp. chili powder
3/4 tsp. cumin
1/2 tsp. oregano
1/4 tsp. thyme
2 Tbsp. fresh cilantro
2 Tbsp. white wine vinegar
3/4 cup vegetable broth
1/4 cup sour cream or plain greek yogurt
sea salt and ground pepper, to taste
pinch muscovado sugar

Refried Beans
1 15-oz can black beans, drained and rinsed
2/3 red onion
1 garlic clove, minced
1 Tbsp. coconut oil (or preferred cooking oil)
1 1/2 tsp. paprika
1 tsp. cumin
chili flakes (optional, to taste)
pinch sea salt (if beans were not in salted water)

Salsa Fresca (Pico de Gallo)
3 tomatoes, medium sized and ripe but firm
1/3 red onion
2 Tbsp. cilantro, chopped (leaves + stems!)
1 lime
pinch sea salt

Garnish
1/2 avocado, sliced
crumbly cheese (preferably cotija or queso fresco; goat cheese is a good substitute if Mexican cheeses are inaccessible)
cilantro
sea salt + freshly cracked black pepper

Directions
Ranchero Sauce
(If easier, this can be made a few days in advance and refrigerated or defrosted from frozen.)  
1.  Mix all ingredients in a blender until smooth.
2.  Transfer to a saucepan and simmer until warm and thickened, about 10 minutes, stirring occasionally.

Salsa Fresca (Pico de Gallo)
1.  Chop tomatoes into 1/2" (1cm) cubes, discarding the seeds and juices.
2.  Dice red onion into small cubes.  Set aside 2/3 for the refried beans.
2.  Mix tomatoes in a bowl with the leftover 1/3 diced onion and chopped cilantro.
3.  Squeeze in juice of 1/2 a lime.  Add a pinch of salt.  Stir.
4.  Adjust flavors to taste.  Set aside.

Refried Beans
2.  In a medium saucepan, heat 1 Tbsp. coconut oil.  Add the remaining 2/3 chopped onion and sauté until beginning to turn translucent, about 3 minutes.  Add minced garlic and cook for another minute.
3.  Stir in paprika, cumin and chili flakes, if using.  Cook for a minute.  Add a splash of water to deglaze the pot if the spices are sticking.
4.  Add the black beans and stir until covered by onions, garlic and spices.  Let cook for a few minutes to heat up and absorb the flavors.
5.  Occasionally stir and mash up the beans, turning them into a bit of a paste with larger chunky bits.  Add splashes of water in small increments if the beans begin to get dry.
6.  Adjust seasoning to taste.  Turn off heat when happy with taste and texture. 

Eggs and Tortillas
1.  If your tortillas are burrito-sized, cut them down to taco size using a small plate as a guide.
2-A.  If you have a gas stove, turn heat on low and place tortillas directly over the flame to heat.  Keep an eye on them so they don't burn, moving them around and flipping over for an even char.  Don't let them get crispy!  Put on plate.
2-B.  If you have an electric stove, heat tortillas in a dry skillet on the stove until warm and slightly browned but still soft.  Put on plate.
3.  In a small frying pan over a medium heat, heat a splash of oil (or butter, if you prefer).  Crack one egg directly into the pan.  Let cook uninterrupted until the white has turned opaque and the edges get a bit crispy.  Repeat with second egg.

Assembling the Huevos Rancheros
1.  While the eggs are cooking, pile hot refried beans on top of the tortillas.
2.  Place fried eggs on top of refried beans.  Spoon salsa onto each plate next to the egg.  Add slices of avocado and a generous sprinkle of crumbly cheese.  Drizzle desired amount of ranchero sauce over everything.
3.  Top off with sea salt, freshly cracked black pepper, and cilantro leaves.

FIG, RICOTTA + HONEY SALAD with PINE NUTS + PEPITAS

I am craving the bounties of spring.  I am yearning for the freshness, the juiciness, the flavors of summer.  I am looking at my calendar and going to the farmers market and wondering why beetroot and butternut squash continue to adorn the stalls.  I am trying to reconcile the realities of the British climate and the particular bounties which it produces with my friends' Instagram photos of the markets in Los Angeles, brimming with nectarines, avocados and berries.  I am jealous.

But why?  Really, all I have to do is head to my nearest supermarket and all of these goods will be right at my fingertips.  Yes, but at what cost?  Imported from how far?  How nutritionally depleted?  Eating seasonally and locally is so gratifying.  Nothing beats the taste of impeccably ripe produce, the feeling of chatting face-to-face with one of the farmers who helped cultivate it, the knowledge that you're directly supporting your local economy.  And eating seasonally and locally can be incredibly challenging as well.  We love, we crave, we have histories with certain foods.  Every single week, my shopping basket contains bananas.  I mix them into my oatmeal, use them as a base for smoothies, freeze them to make healthy ice cream, mash them up with nut butter.  I don't know if a single banana has ever been grown in the UK.  The bananas I bought this week were imported from the Dominican Republic.  And yet, tinged with guilt, I continue to buy them.  And every Saturday that I am able, I go to my local famers' market.  I am conscious and I am a work in progress.  

I recently discovered another cafe that I have fallen head-over-heels in love with.  Called L'Atelier, its menu is simple yet elegant.  While perusing the chalkboard-displayed eats during my first visit this past April, I was immediately drawn to the fig, ricotta and honey salad.  But wait -- fresh figs?  Really?  They were definitely not in season.  Would they be ripe, luscious, tasty?  How far had they travelled to get here?  Despite my guilt-tripping food consciousness, I wanted this salad.  I ordered this salad.  And I promptly devoured this salad, relishing every second of it.

Crisp and peppery from heaps of mixed greens and a hefty sprinkling of fresh cracked black pepper.  Sweet and creamy from dollops of ricotta and generous thick drizzles of honey.  Crunchy and nutty from toasted pine nuts and pumpkin seeds.  Colorful and decadent from slices of soft and fragrant fresh figs.  This salad hit all the right notes.  It wasn't particularly seasonal.  It probably wasn't local.  But it was nutritious.  And delicious.  And one of the best decisions I made that day.

Developing and expanding my education about the myriad reasons why it is so important to eat seasonally and locally has been invaluable.  It regularly influences my food-related choices--of where I shop, what I choose to purchase and put into my body, and when.  But we are not 100% consistent beings.  We are works in progress.  Sometimes, we want bananas in the UK and figs in April.  And that's okay too.

Fig, Ricotta + Honey Salad with Pine Nuts + Pepitas

Inspired by L'Atelier, Dalston UK

Serves one

Ingredients

3-4 heaping handfuls mixed greens (arugula, baby chard, spinach, watercress)

1 fig (fresh & ripe!)

2 1/2 Tbsp. ricotta

1/2 lemon, zested

1 Tbsp. pine nuts

1/2 Tbsp. pepitas (pumpkin seeds)

1 Tbsp. extra virgin olive oil (cold pressed)

1/2 Tbsp. balsamic vinegar

1 garlic clove

fresh cracked black pepper

2 tsp. runny honey

Directions

1.  Place greens in a large bowl.

2.  In a small skillet, toast pine nuts and pepitas over a low heat until fragrant and slightly browned, 5 or so minutes, shaking the pan often so they don't burn.

3.  Slice the fig into quarters (all vertical cuts), and then halve each quarter vertically. 

4.  Mix the lemon zest with the ricotta.

5.  In a small jar with a lid, combine the olive oil, balsamic, and a few grates of the garlic clove (not even half; it's pungent!).  Shake well.

6.  Add figs, pine nuts, pepitas, and dollops of the ricotta to the greens.  Sprinkle with a few generous twists of freshly cracked black pepper.  Toss with the oil & vinegar dressing.  Drizzle honey over everything.

CHICKPEA CAKES with KALE and MINTED BROAD BEAN DRESSING + THE ORCHARD IN BROCKLEY

I am a bit of a cafe junkie.  Is this something you can relate to?  I find myself seeking out quality cafes more than any other type of establishment.  This is largely because I prefer to read, research, write and work at cafes rather than at the library or from home.  Somewhat counter-intuitively, the ambient bustle and buzz helps me focus.  I sit, headphones cradling my ears and cappuccino by my side, at once a part of and separate from the surrounding environment.  But I am particular; there are many conditions which must be met, disparate elements that need to align in order for a cafe to repeatedly lure me back.  I am magnetically drawn to natural light, excellent coffee, comfortable seating, and a considered spatial and aesthetic design.  We artsy folk can be a bit...finicky.  We can be total suckers for aesthetics.  Or maybe that's just me.  At any rate, I love cafes and am constantly in search of new ones to fall for, to adopt, to casually and productively sit in for hours, to make my unofficial home.  



I was lucky to have found out about The Orchard less than two weeks after I first moved to London.  It's a short 10 minute walk from my house, but as it is not situated directly on the main road or within my typical walking route, it could have easily been ages before I discovered its wonders.  For me, The Orchard ticks all the boxes: unbelievable food (at relatively affordable prices), comfortable couches and tables, a simultaneously chic and cozy design (part of the space is divided by a large fish tank encased in an dark chocolate hued bookshelf, overflowing with well-aged publications ranging from works by Ralph Waldo Emerson to a 1960s edition of the Guiness Book of World Records--WHAT! Amazing), and a friendly, laid back atmosphere that is conducive to delving into work (or a divine meal or conversation with friends) for hours.  It's probably the first place in my life where I've ever truly been 'a regular'.

Casual café by day, buzzing restaurant and bar by night, The Orchard serves some of the best food I've had the pleasure of eating in London.  The simplest way to describe their cuisine is by using of some terribly vague pseudo catch-phrase, like "modern pan-continental bistro", but that's ultimately because the type of food they create is difficult to pin down--which is part of its appeal.  With a seasonally-influenced and regularly changing menu, one will find culinary influences spanning Britain, Asia and the Middle East, all with a contemporary twist.  Whether it's in the form of lightly battered and crispy calamari topped with teriyaki sauce, toasted sesame seeds and impressively thin strips of fried leeks or a saffron pudding cake laced with pureed figs and served with homemade butterscotch sauce and pistachio ice cream, the flavors are always surprising and always abound. 

One of the best dishes on offer at The Orchard in the past few months has been these incredibly aromatic and hearty chickpea cakes served with sautéed greens, homemade hummus, and a broad bean (fava beans, to us American + Canadians) and mint dressing.  The flavor of the cakes bursts with fresh herbs and Middle Eastern spices, turning the modest chickpea into an exciting feast for the taste buds, blissfully satiating.  And what's more, the dish is totally vegan! (Props to The Orchard as well for always having interesting vegetarian/vegan offerings.)  Through an incredibly fortuitous turn of events, I have gotten my foodie hands on the recipe.  Being able to recreate dishes from The Orchard at home is one of the best things to happen to me as of late.  I am so excited to now extend that gift to you!  (And a big thanks to The Orchard for letting me write about and share one of your secrets.)

Chickpea Cakes with Kale and Minted Broad (Fava) Bean Dressing
Serves 3-4

Ingredients
For the Chickpea Cakes
2 15oz. cans of chickpeas, drained and rinsed
1/2 cup (60 g homemade; 110 g dry) breadcrumbs
1 lemon, juice + zest
2 large shallots, finely diced
2 garlic cloves, minced
4 1/2 Tbsp. cilantro, minced
4 Tbsp. flat leaf parsley, minced
1 1/2 Tbsp. mint, minced
1 1/3 Tbsp. dried coriander
1 tsp. ground ginger
1 tsp. turmeric
1/4 tsp. ground cardamom
1 tsp. salt

For the Kale
2 big bunches kale, leaves removed from stems
1 garlic clove, minced
knob coconut oil (or preferred cooking oil)
sea salt
squeeze of fresh lemon

For the Minted Broad (Fava) Bean Dressing
1 cup (150 g) broad beans, removed from pod (fresh or frozen is fine)
6 Tbsp. (1/4 cup + 2T) cold-pressed olive oil
3 Tbsp. mint, minced
1/2 tsp. runny honey
1/2 tsp. salt
1/2 lemon, juice + zest

Directions
For the Chickpea Cakes
1. Combine all ingredients in a large bowl and mash together with a potato masher, a large fork, or your hands.  Alternatively, if you have a Kitchen Aid/stand mixer, use that to mix with the paddle attachment (start on a low speed to avoid flying chickpeas). The mix should ultimately stick together quite well but still have bits of whole/partial chickpeas in it.
2.  Using your hands, form mix into six patties, each about 2"/5cm wide by .4"/1cm thick.
3-A.  If you have an oven-proof skillet, Pre-heat oven to 350°F/180°C/Gas 4.  On the stove/hob, heat a thin layer of oil in skillet over medium heat.  Place as many patties as will fit in the pan and cook until their bottoms are browned, 3-4 minutes.  Flip patties and place skillet in the oven for 3-4 minutes, until the other side is browned as well.
3-B.  If you do NOT have an oven-proof skillet, On the stove/hob, heat a thin layer of oil in skillet over low heat.   Place as many patties as will fit in the pan and cook until their bottoms are browned, 5-6 minutes. Flip patties and repeat until browned and warmed throughout.

For the Kale
1.  Thoroughly rinse kale and set aside, leaving some bits of water on the leaves (this will help it cook).
2.  Heat oil in a large pan on medium-low heat. 
3.  Add garlic and sauté until fragrant, about 1 minute.
4.  Add kale to pan (it may be overflowing but will significantly cook down), sprinkle with sea salt, and carefully stir to coat leaves in the oil.
5.  Cook until the volume of the leaves has reduced by almost half and leaves are tender, about 10 minutes, stirring occasionally. 
6.  Once cooked, turn off heat and squeeze a bit of fresh lemon over the kale.

For the Minted Broad (Fava) Bean Dressing
1-A.  If using fresh beans, remove from pods and cook in boiling water until tender, 3-5 minutes.  Drain water and immediately transfer beans to a bowl of ice water to stop cooking.
1-B.  If using frozen pre-cooked beans, place beans in a bowl of warm water to thaw.
2.  In a medium sized bowl, thoroughly mix together olive oil, lemon juice + zest, salt, mint and honey.
3.  Working with each bean individually, remove the outer skin and then put the bean directly into the bowl with the dressing.
4.  Stir to combine.

To assemble
1.  Place kale on plates.
2.  Top with 2 chickpea patties (hot from the stove/oven!), or however many you desire.
3.  Generously spoon dressing over the cakes and kale.  

GINGER QUINOA, BROCCOLI + BOK CHOI with MISO-TAHINI DRESSING

Have you ever had a moment when you've actually stopped to look at the precise number of emails sitting in your inbox, only to find yourself gasping at the sheer volume of it?  This happened to me the other day.  So many emails.  Just...sitting there.  Some messages held with the best intentions of eliciting a response; some kept as a reminder of where (and who) I've been in the past; some saved for their articles I intended to read or lists of bands I meant to check out.  But time passes, life happens, and they just sit, their number indefinitely increasing.  

Curious about what elements of my past were languishing in the far reaches of my inbox, I clicked through the pages, browsing through the email blasts and personal correspondence that I had collected in the past year-and-then-some.  Much to my amusement, I found an email dated 15 April 2012, bearing the subject: "Quinoa?!?!".  In it, I had written to a friend, declaring: "Tomorrow, I am going to make quinoa for the first time," and inquiring whether she thought I should cook the quinoa in vegetable stock or just plain water.  That email exchange--written with such enthusiastic naïveté--really made me laugh.  It reminded me how short of a time I've actually been cooking and how recently it was, in the grand scheme of things, that I became so passionate about food.  Making and eating quinoa is so routine to me now, but not so long ago those amazing little seeds were an entirely foreign substance to me.  Maybe you eat quinoa all the time.  Maybe you've never heard of it.  Less than one year ago, I had never eaten it in my life; now it is a serious staple of my whole-foods based diet.  I recently realized that I have yet to post a recipe featuring quinoa.  It is high time that I rectify that situation.

Grains: Whole vs. Refined
When I began to properly cook, expand my palate, and read about food and nutrition around this time last year, refined grains were among the first foods that I replaced in my diet.  While I will always eat a good chocolate chip cookie and, if no whole grain bread is available, I won't scornfully dismiss a sandwich on a freshly baked baguette, you won't find me buying or cooking with white rice or white flour if I can avoid it.  Here's why:

The whole kernel of any grain is composed of three parts: the bran (the protective outer layer); the germ (the internal embryo, which has the ability to sprout into a new plant); and the endosperm (the kernel's inner core, which contains starchy carbohydrates and supplies food for the germ).  The bran of a whole kernel is high in antioxidants, B vitamins and fiber, while the germ contains protein, minerals and essential healthy fats.  In the process of refining (which is how we get white flour, white rice, etc.), the kernel is stripped of both its bran and germ, leaving behind nothing but its endosperm; the grain thus becomes a nutritionally barren shadow of a previously rich whole food.  Once refined, grains lose about 25% of their protein and over 15 nutrients.  This includes grains' B vitamins, which are necessary for the successful breakdown of carbohydrates in the body and, consequently, proper metabolization.  Refined grains also lack the majority of the fiber that is present in their whole form.  This is a big loss for our bodies, as fiber is essential to the healthy maintenance of our digestive system, keeps us feeling satiated for longer periods of time, and helps regulate our blood sugar levels.* 

When I first learned about the immense nutritional value of whole grains compared to the nutritionally devoid composition of refined grains (even when 'enriched'), making the switch to a whole-grain diet was, for me, a no-brainer.  What has been even more exciting than knowing I'm being kind to my body (which, yes, is great) has been the world of grain varieties that I have since delved into.  Brown rice, wheat berries, spelt berries, quinoa, millet, wild rice...so many interesting grains, each with unique tastes and textures, each great for our bodies in different ways.  Really, what's not to love?

Quinoa
Okay, I know. I've spent ages extolling the virtues of whole grains and I'm sure at least a portion of you are sitting there thinking, 'Uh, yes, but quinoa isn't technically a grain, it's a seed'.  This is true.  However, it is essentially grain-like and very quick-cooking, much like couscous; this convenience (and its versatility--it pairs well with almost anything!) is in large part why I eat it so often.  So as to not belabor this post too much, here are the quinoa highlights:

• While this 'superfood' has only relatively recently become integrated into Western cooking and cuisine, quinoa was one of the primary staples in the Incan diet over 5,000 years ago.
• It is still primarily grown and distributed from the Andes region of South America.
• While it cooks and tastes like a grain, quinoa is actually the seed of a plant that is related to beets, spinach and chard.
• Quinoa is one of the few foods that--all on its own--contains the nine essential amino acids that make up a complete protein.
• It is gluten-free, high in fibre and low in fat.
• Quinoa contains significant amounts of manganese, magnesium and iron and has anti-inflammatory properties.**

And now, finally...to the food!

*Whole grain nutrition information from Alive, 'What's in a Grain Kernel?', and Whole Grains Council, 'What is a Whole Grain?'. 
**Quinoa information from World's Healthiest Foods and My New Roots.


Ginger Quinoa, Broccoli + Bok Choi with Miso-Tahini Dressing
Serves two

Ingredients
1/2 cup (110 g) quinoa (any color is great)
2 tsp. ginger root, grated
1 garlic clove, finely minced
1 spring onion, sliced on a slight diagonal
1 tsp. coconut oil (or preferred cooking oil)
8-10 stems (100 g) tenderstem broccoli
1 medium head bok choy, bottom cut off and leaves/stalks separated
sesame seeds, dry toasted (optional, for garnish)

Miso-Tahini Dressing
1/2 Tbsp. miso paste (organic, non-GMO; light or dark is fine)
1/2 tsp. tahini (preferably dark, unhulled)
1 lemon, juice + zest
1/2 tsp. honey
1/4 tsp. ginger root, grated
1 Tbsp. water

Directions
1.  Rinse quinoa well, rubbing the seeds together, and strain.  Do this a few times until the rinsing water remains clear. (Without rinsing, the quinoa will taste quite bitter.)  Set aside.
2.  In a small pot, heat oil over a low heat and sauté garlic, ginger and spring onion until fragrant, 1-2 minutes, stirring frequently so the ginger doesn't stick and burn.  Add quinoa and toast for an additional minute.
3.  Add 3/4 cup water to the pot and bring to a boil.  Once boiling, reduce to a simmer, cover, and let cook (without opening the lid) for 15 minutes.  Once 15 minutes has passed, remove from heat and let sit (lid still on!) for 10 minutes.
4.  In the meantime, line a grill tray (for UK-style grill) or baking tray (for US-style broiler, which is like a UK grill) with foil.  Spread broccoli and bok choi on tray (some overlap is fine).  Drizzle with oil and sprinkle with salt.
5.  Place tray under grill/broiler on medium-high heat.  Cook until beginning to brown, 10-15 minutes, tossing occasionally.  Turn down heat if your tray is quite close to the flame and the veggies are burning without cooking through.
6.  To make the dressing, combine all ingredients in a jar with a lid and shake vigorously.
7.  Once quinoa has cooked and sat for 10 minutes, remove lid and fluff.  Add salt to taste.
8.  Pile quinoa on plates, top with grilled broccoli and bok choi, and drizzle with dressing.  Garnish with toasted sesame seeds and fresh spring onion, if desired.

SWEET POTATO CAKES with A POACHED EGG and LEMONY YOGURT SAUCE

Ottolenghi.  The first time I heard that word, I was incredibly confused.  'Sorry, what?'  'Gesundheit?'  'Uh, could you repeat that, please?'  I was in the midst of a lively conversation about the best restaurants in London with a British friend when my ears were first confronted with that particular combination of sounds; yet my brain seriously couldn't compute them as a comprehensible word.  'Ottolenghi', he repeated.  I turned to my computer, wanting to look up this mysterious place and--most importantly--to see the menu.  With my fingers eagerly perched atop my keyboard, I faced just one small deterrent: 'How do you spell that?' I asked.

Little did I know that Ottolenghi would soon become as ubiquitous in my life--and, to a degree, in the food culture of London--as sliced bread (okay fine, as unsliced, whole grain loaves that I buy from independent markets, slice at home, and keep in my freezer for a month).  Yotam Ottolenghi is an Israeli chef and restauranteur whose dishes and recipes dreamily synthesize flavors, ingredients, and cooking techniques from across the Middle East, Mediterranean, and Asia.  His innovate combinations of ingredients and seasonings are extremely bold and always surprising.  I have never come across another chef whose recipes include such copious amounts of fresh herbs.  Ottolenghi employs herbs and spices as if they are a main element of the dish rather than a garnish or subtle addition; when cooking from his recipes, you may often re-read and re-measure, wondering: Am I really meant to include over a full cup of chopped mint, cilantro and dill?  Yes, you are.  This unapologetic and unexpected approach is a large part of what makes his food so enticing, exciting, and downright enjoyable.  

Another fact that fuels my insatiable foodie-crush on Ottolenghi is his unabashed embrace of vegetables and 'atypical' whole grains.  Yes, he cooks meat and fish.  But he gives as much attention and care to dishes where produce and grains are the shining star, rather than an afterthought.  When you next have the time, I highly recommended going to your local bookshop or library and perusing through (or taking home!) his cookbook Plenty.  It is truly stunning--a feast for the eyes, the mind, and the stomach.

These Ottolenghi sweet potato cakes are among his more straightforward recipes (for as glorious as each of his dishes is, I am not going to pretend that the often epic ingredients lists aren't at times a bit tedious or cost-prohibitive).  Also: hello sweet potato!  You are the light of my life, the least vegetable-like vegetable.  Your sweetness makes me melt.  I could eat you for days on end. Wait, what?  And you're super nutritious?  Why wouldn't you make these immediately?

Sweet Potatoes: Stealthily Nutritious
As you might imagine based on their intensely orange huge, sweet potatoes are incredibly rich in beta-carotene, an anti-oxidant that is converted into vitamin A once it has been absorbed by the small intestines. Vitamin A is important in maintaining normal cell growth and division in our bodies and is particularly linked to eye health and bone development.  Beta-carotene has also been linked to the prevention of heart disease and certain cancers and is essential in sustaining a strong immune system.  In addition to vitamin A, sweet potatoes contain high amounts of vitamin C, vitamin B6, manganese and fiber.  They are also very low in saturated fat and calories and are surprisingly supportive of blood sugar regulation, unlike many other starchy foods.*  

The great thing about these sweet potato cakes (other than their sheer nutritious deliciousness) is their versatility.  Easy to prepare but with a distinct elegance and surprising flavor about them, I made these for a birthday brunch and topped them off with a poached egg, which was divine.  They could easily be served atop a bed of curried lentils or in a bowl among a melange of crisp greens.  They're great on their own as an appetizer at a party and work just as well as a side accompanying a main.  Ottolenghi's lemony yogurt sauce is also a great template for experimentation.  In Sprouted Kitchen's version of these cakes, they added lemongrass to the sauce, which I think is a great idea.  Play around with the sauce by adding different herbs, blend in some feta or goat cheese, a bit of spice.  Relish the gifts that Ottolenghi has given us with his vibrant recipes, but take his approach to cooking as a gift as well.  Adapt.  Synthesize unexpected flavors.  Go crazy.  I can't promise it will taste amazing the first time around, but isn't that what the joy of cooking is all about?

*Nutritional information from WHFoods and the World Carrot Museum.

Ottolenghi's Sweet Potato Cakes
slightly adapted from his recipe in The Guardian
Serves four

Ingredients
Sweet Potato Cakes
1kg (2-3 medium sized) sweet potatoes, peeled and largely cubed 
3 Tbsp. spring onion, chopped
1/4 tsp. red chili flakes or fresh red chili, finely minced (or to taste)
2 tsp. soy sauce or tamari
3/4 cup (95 grams) light whole wheat, spelt, or oat flour 
1 tsp. salt
1/2 tsp. turbinado or muscovado (or another unrefined) sugar
coconut oil or butter, for frying

Lemony Yogurt Sauce
1/4 cup (50 grams) plain Greek yogurt
1/4 cup (50 grams) sour cream (or use all yogurt)
1 Tbsp. olive oil
1 Tbsp. lemon juice
1 Tbsp. fresh cilantro (aka coriander), finely chopped
(optional herb additions: basil, dill, mint, parsley, marjoram, lemongrass...)

Poached egg(s)
1 egg per person, as fresh as possible
splash of vinegar
water

Directions
For the sweet potato cakes
1.  Steam the sweet potatoes until thoroughly tender.  Once cooked, set aside in a colander to drain and cool.
2.  Once the sweet potatoes have let off all their steam and are fully drained (could take about an hour), mash them in a large bowl and mix in the remaining cake ingredients.  The mixture should be tacky but not runny or wet; if it is, add a bit more flour until a sticky but moldable consistency is reached.
3.  Lightly oil a baking tray, some foil, or another surface.  Wet your hands and scoop out a tablespoon or two of sweet potato mix*, rolling it into a ball and placing on the oiled surface.  Do this with all of the fritter mix.** 
4.  Melt a generous amount of coconut oil or butter in a nonstick pan over a medium-high heat.  
5.  Carefully place the sweet potato balls in the skillet and flatten them into patties.  Cook until golden brown on each side, about 7 minutes.
5.  Place between two paper towels to soak up excess butter or oil after they have been cooked.  Serve hot.

*I completely neglected this direction (Ottolenghi instructs you to make the balls 'walnut-sized') and over-zealously made each of my patties as large as a burger.  Needless to say, they didn't fully cook in the middle.  So I'd stick with the smaller size if your self-control allows it.
**It helps to prep all the cakes beforehand, otherwise your hands will be completely covered and sticky as you try to handle a spatula and fry them, then make more balls, then fry them...which is what happened to me.

For the sauce
1.  While sweet potatoes are steaming, prepare the sauce.  Whisk together all ingredients until smooth or blend in a food processor.

For the poached egg
1.  Fill a medium-sized saucepan halfway with water and bring to a boil.  Once boiling, reduce the heat until the water is just simmering, with the tiny bubbles barely breaking the surface.
2.  Pour in a splash of any light vinegar (I use cider vinegar).
3.  Crack the egg into a ceramic or glass cup with a handle.  Taking care not to touch your hand to the water, gently tilt and lower the cup into the saucepan until it is flooded with water and you can tip the egg out.
4.  Using a large heat-resistant spoon, gently nudge or fold the whites around the yolk immediately after tipping the egg in the water.
5.  Let cook for 4 minutes for a runny egg; 5 for a firmer yolk.
6.  Remove egg with a slotted spoon.  Place on a plate with a paper towel or two to drain.

ROASTED ROOT VEGETABLE TACOS (with SWEET POTATO, BEETROOT + PERSIMMON)

Memory is a strange and funny thing.  It’s incredible, how connected each of our senses is to the triggering of different memories; the way a certain scent can immediately bring you back to a precise place that you haven’t recollected in ages, or a specific song can make you feel like you’re fifteen and irrevocably lovelorn all over again (or hopefully make you laugh at the memory of it).  Food and taste have an interesting relationship to memory, as food is so often at the crux of social events or gatherings.  We associate certain dishes with specific holidays; remember our excitement when our mothers let us lick the bowl of cake batter or cookie dough; recall what we prepared to eat on the occasion of making that daunting or exhilarating announcement.

Sometimes food is imbued with memory because of who we were with or what transpired when we consumed it, while in other instances it comprises the memory in-and-of itself.  The mind-blowingly delicious, sweet and creamy 'normal' cheese (as the Spaniards called it) that topped a bocadito I shared with my best friend in Barcelona this past July will absolutely go down in history.  As will the infamous maple cinnamon almond butter, both for its truly insane taste and for initiating my foray into the wonderful world of homemade nut butter.  And forevermore, the sight and taste of a ripe, succulent persimmon will remind me of these roasted winter root veg tacos, shared with good friends and family I hadn't seen in ages, a pure delight of distinct, bold, and perfectly complimentary flavors. 

My creation of these tacos was impelled by a serendipitous tasting at my local famers’ market in Los Angeles over the holidays.  It may go without saying, but I am a huge fan of free samples—especially if they’re of seasonal, quality produce, baked goods, or artisanal cheeses.  Meandering through the endlessly vibrant stalls of the market one Saturday, I happened upon a produce seller offering samples of persimmon (known as sharon fruit here in the UK).  I had only ever tasted persimmon once before in my life, as a child; I remembered the way it made my tongue feel like sandpaper, a bewitched fruit that mysteriously altered the sensorial chemistry of my mouth.  While this mildly traumatizing experience had averted me from the fruit for the following two decades of my life, I was now a new woman: adventuresome, eager, in love with food, and willing to take the risk.  I would taste it again. 

Sweet, succulent, and juicy, this fruit instantaneously worked its magic on me, but of an entirely different variety this time around.  I excitedly approached the grocer and bought more persimmons than I knew what to do with.  But I wasn’t concerned.  I knew I would figure something out.

The following evening, I had plans to cook dinner with a few friends.  Mulling over what would be fun and easy to make for a party of four, lightening suddenly struck: tacos, but with a twist.  They would have elements of traditional tacos (corn tortilla, black beans) but be rooted in the produce that was thriving at the moment. They would be persimmon tacos.  With beetroot.  And sweet potato.  A marriage of seasonal flavors, fruit and veg, fresh and roasted, bursting with color.  Being made in LA (which has the benefits of certain foodstuffs that are impossible to find in London), they would feature proper Mexican cheese.  Fresh cilantro and a creamy coconut sauce.  The layers of ideas were bubbling in my head. I simply couldn't wait to make them.

While these tacos require many individual bits to fully execute, they are worth all the effort--for their simultaneous freshness and warmth, their sweetness and zing, and the true explosion of flavor they produce with each eager bite. They provide a burst of color and a sheer joy of taste that will surely brighten up these cold, bleak winter days.

Roasted Root Vegetable Tacos (with Sweet Potato, Beetroot & Persimmon)

Serves two

Ingredients

4 soft corn tortillas, taco size (if you can't find small corn tortillas at your market, you can use the burrito sized ones and cut them into smaller rounds)

1 persimmon a.k.a. sharon fruit (ripe! not rock hard, like many in the UK are)

Queso fresco, cotija cheese, or crumbly goat cheese (optional)

fresh cilantro for garnish

Maple-Miso Sweet Potatoes, inspired by Love + Lemons

1 large or 2 small sweet potatoes, cut into 1" cubes

1/2 Tbsp. miso paste (organic, non-GMO; light or dark is fine)

1/2 Tbsp. pure maple syrup

Roasted Beetroot

3 medium beets

1 tsp. ground coriander

1/2 tsp. thyme

squeeze of 1/2 a lemon

Spiced Black Beans

1 15-oz can black beans (or you can cook them from dry if you have time!)

2 tsp. coconut oil (or cooking oil of choice)

1 small red onion, largely diced

2 garlic cloves, minced

1/2 tsp. smoked paprika

1/4 tsp. red chili flakes (or to taste)

(Coconut) Lime Cilantro Sauce -- great with the coconut or without

1/2 cup (4 oz) plain probiotic yogurt (make sure it has no additives, just yogurt)

3 Tbsp. unsweetened dried coconut (optional)

3 Tbsp. cilantro, leaves + stems finely minced

1 tsp. cold-pressed olive oil

1/2 lime, juice + zest

salt & pepper, to taste

Directions

1.  Make sauce.  If using coconut, heat oven to 350°F / 180°C / Gas 4.  Spread coconut on a baking tray and toast until lightly golden, 5-7 minutes.  Finely chop or mash with a mortar and pestle.  Once coconut is prepped, or if omitting, mix all sauce ingredients together.  For a smoother sauce, you can combine all the ingredients in a food processor, reserving olive oil to drizzle in and process at the end. Place in fridge to let flavors meld.

2.  Pre-heat oven to 400°F / 200°C / Gas 6.  

3.  Starting with the beetroot, cut off the stems and wash off any dirt (no need to peel).  Loosely wrap each beet in foil and set on a baking tray.  Roast for 50-60 minutes, checking every 20 minutes or so to make sure they aren't sticking to the tray or burning.  Beets are done when a fork slides into their middles easily.

4.  Once the beets are in the oven, chop your sweet potato into 1" cubes.  Place in a roasting tin, coat lightly with olive or coconut oil and sprinkle with salt.  Roast for 10-15 minutes, until just beginning to soften.

5.  Mix miso paste and maple syrup together.

6.  Remove sweet potato from oven, pour over the miso-maple marinade and toss to coat.  Roast sweet potato for an additional 10-15 minutes, until softened and caramelized. (I find that blasting them under the grill or broiler for the last 5 minutes of cooking produces a superior caramelization than cooking them in the oven the entire time.) Set aside.

7.  When the beets are cooked through, remove them from the oven and set aside to cool for a few minutes.  After they are cool enough to handle, use a paper towel and your thumbs to slide the skins off the beets.  They should come off quite easily.  If not, they may need a few more minutes in the oven.  

8.  Dice beets into 1" cubes.  Toss with ground coriander, thyme and lemon juice.  Set aside.

9.  Prepare black beans. In a saucepan on medium heat, sauté diced onion with oil until translucent, about 5 minutes.  Add garlic, paprika and chili flakes and cook for an additional 1 minute.  

10.  Drain and rinse black beans.  Add to saucepan with the onions and spices.  Stir to coat and cook until thoroughly warmed.  Set aside.

11.  Slice persimmon into strips.  Set aside.

12.  When ready to serve, heat tortillas in oven or directly over the flame on a gas stove, watching carefully to make sure they don't burn.  Top with beans, beetroot, sweet potato, cheese (if using), yogurt sauce and fresh cilantro.  Promptly devour!