SWEET POTATO CAKES with A POACHED EGG and LEMONY YOGURT SAUCE

Ottolenghi.  The first time I heard that word, I was incredibly confused.  'Sorry, what?'  'Gesundheit?'  'Uh, could you repeat that, please?'  I was in the midst of a lively conversation about the best restaurants in London with a British friend when my ears were first confronted with that particular combination of sounds; yet my brain seriously couldn't compute them as a comprehensible word.  'Ottolenghi', he repeated.  I turned to my computer, wanting to look up this mysterious place and--most importantly--to see the menu.  With my fingers eagerly perched atop my keyboard, I faced just one small deterrent: 'How do you spell that?' I asked.

Little did I know that Ottolenghi would soon become as ubiquitous in my life--and, to a degree, in the food culture of London--as sliced bread (okay fine, as unsliced, whole grain loaves that I buy from independent markets, slice at home, and keep in my freezer for a month).  Yotam Ottolenghi is an Israeli chef and restauranteur whose dishes and recipes dreamily synthesize flavors, ingredients, and cooking techniques from across the Middle East, Mediterranean, and Asia.  His innovate combinations of ingredients and seasonings are extremely bold and always surprising.  I have never come across another chef whose recipes include such copious amounts of fresh herbs.  Ottolenghi employs herbs and spices as if they are a main element of the dish rather than a garnish or subtle addition; when cooking from his recipes, you may often re-read and re-measure, wondering: Am I really meant to include over a full cup of chopped mint, cilantro and dill?  Yes, you are.  This unapologetic and unexpected approach is a large part of what makes his food so enticing, exciting, and downright enjoyable.  

Another fact that fuels my insatiable foodie-crush on Ottolenghi is his unabashed embrace of vegetables and 'atypical' whole grains.  Yes, he cooks meat and fish.  But he gives as much attention and care to dishes where produce and grains are the shining star, rather than an afterthought.  When you next have the time, I highly recommended going to your local bookshop or library and perusing through (or taking home!) his cookbook Plenty.  It is truly stunning--a feast for the eyes, the mind, and the stomach.

These Ottolenghi sweet potato cakes are among his more straightforward recipes (for as glorious as each of his dishes is, I am not going to pretend that the often epic ingredients lists aren't at times a bit tedious or cost-prohibitive).  Also: hello sweet potato!  You are the light of my life, the least vegetable-like vegetable.  Your sweetness makes me melt.  I could eat you for days on end. Wait, what?  And you're super nutritious?  Why wouldn't you make these immediately?

Sweet Potatoes: Stealthily Nutritious
As you might imagine based on their intensely orange huge, sweet potatoes are incredibly rich in beta-carotene, an anti-oxidant that is converted into vitamin A once it has been absorbed by the small intestines. Vitamin A is important in maintaining normal cell growth and division in our bodies and is particularly linked to eye health and bone development.  Beta-carotene has also been linked to the prevention of heart disease and certain cancers and is essential in sustaining a strong immune system.  In addition to vitamin A, sweet potatoes contain high amounts of vitamin C, vitamin B6, manganese and fiber.  They are also very low in saturated fat and calories and are surprisingly supportive of blood sugar regulation, unlike many other starchy foods.*  

The great thing about these sweet potato cakes (other than their sheer nutritious deliciousness) is their versatility.  Easy to prepare but with a distinct elegance and surprising flavor about them, I made these for a birthday brunch and topped them off with a poached egg, which was divine.  They could easily be served atop a bed of curried lentils or in a bowl among a melange of crisp greens.  They're great on their own as an appetizer at a party and work just as well as a side accompanying a main.  Ottolenghi's lemony yogurt sauce is also a great template for experimentation.  In Sprouted Kitchen's version of these cakes, they added lemongrass to the sauce, which I think is a great idea.  Play around with the sauce by adding different herbs, blend in some feta or goat cheese, a bit of spice.  Relish the gifts that Ottolenghi has given us with his vibrant recipes, but take his approach to cooking as a gift as well.  Adapt.  Synthesize unexpected flavors.  Go crazy.  I can't promise it will taste amazing the first time around, but isn't that what the joy of cooking is all about?

*Nutritional information from WHFoods and the World Carrot Museum.

Ottolenghi's Sweet Potato Cakes
slightly adapted from his recipe in The Guardian
Serves four

Ingredients
Sweet Potato Cakes
1kg (2-3 medium sized) sweet potatoes, peeled and largely cubed 
3 Tbsp. spring onion, chopped
1/4 tsp. red chili flakes or fresh red chili, finely minced (or to taste)
2 tsp. soy sauce or tamari
3/4 cup (95 grams) light whole wheat, spelt, or oat flour 
1 tsp. salt
1/2 tsp. turbinado or muscovado (or another unrefined) sugar
coconut oil or butter, for frying

Lemony Yogurt Sauce
1/4 cup (50 grams) plain Greek yogurt
1/4 cup (50 grams) sour cream (or use all yogurt)
1 Tbsp. olive oil
1 Tbsp. lemon juice
1 Tbsp. fresh cilantro (aka coriander), finely chopped
(optional herb additions: basil, dill, mint, parsley, marjoram, lemongrass...)

Poached egg(s)
1 egg per person, as fresh as possible
splash of vinegar
water

Directions
For the sweet potato cakes
1.  Steam the sweet potatoes until thoroughly tender.  Once cooked, set aside in a colander to drain and cool.
2.  Once the sweet potatoes have let off all their steam and are fully drained (could take about an hour), mash them in a large bowl and mix in the remaining cake ingredients.  The mixture should be tacky but not runny or wet; if it is, add a bit more flour until a sticky but moldable consistency is reached.
3.  Lightly oil a baking tray, some foil, or another surface.  Wet your hands and scoop out a tablespoon or two of sweet potato mix*, rolling it into a ball and placing on the oiled surface.  Do this with all of the fritter mix.** 
4.  Melt a generous amount of coconut oil or butter in a nonstick pan over a medium-high heat.  
5.  Carefully place the sweet potato balls in the skillet and flatten them into patties.  Cook until golden brown on each side, about 7 minutes.
5.  Place between two paper towels to soak up excess butter or oil after they have been cooked.  Serve hot.

*I completely neglected this direction (Ottolenghi instructs you to make the balls 'walnut-sized') and over-zealously made each of my patties as large as a burger.  Needless to say, they didn't fully cook in the middle.  So I'd stick with the smaller size if your self-control allows it.
**It helps to prep all the cakes beforehand, otherwise your hands will be completely covered and sticky as you try to handle a spatula and fry them, then make more balls, then fry them...which is what happened to me.

For the sauce
1.  While sweet potatoes are steaming, prepare the sauce.  Whisk together all ingredients until smooth or blend in a food processor.

For the poached egg
1.  Fill a medium-sized saucepan halfway with water and bring to a boil.  Once boiling, reduce the heat until the water is just simmering, with the tiny bubbles barely breaking the surface.
2.  Pour in a splash of any light vinegar (I use cider vinegar).
3.  Crack the egg into a ceramic or glass cup with a handle.  Taking care not to touch your hand to the water, gently tilt and lower the cup into the saucepan until it is flooded with water and you can tip the egg out.
4.  Using a large heat-resistant spoon, gently nudge or fold the whites around the yolk immediately after tipping the egg in the water.
5.  Let cook for 4 minutes for a runny egg; 5 for a firmer yolk.
6.  Remove egg with a slotted spoon.  Place on a plate with a paper towel or two to drain.

ROASTED ROOT VEGETABLE TACOS (with SWEET POTATO, BEETROOT + PERSIMMON)

Memory is a strange and funny thing.  It’s incredible, how connected each of our senses is to the triggering of different memories; the way a certain scent can immediately bring you back to a precise place that you haven’t recollected in ages, or a specific song can make you feel like you’re fifteen and irrevocably lovelorn all over again (or hopefully make you laugh at the memory of it).  Food and taste have an interesting relationship to memory, as food is so often at the crux of social events or gatherings.  We associate certain dishes with specific holidays; remember our excitement when our mothers let us lick the bowl of cake batter or cookie dough; recall what we prepared to eat on the occasion of making that daunting or exhilarating announcement.

Sometimes food is imbued with memory because of who we were with or what transpired when we consumed it, while in other instances it comprises the memory in-and-of itself.  The mind-blowingly delicious, sweet and creamy 'normal' cheese (as the Spaniards called it) that topped a bocadito I shared with my best friend in Barcelona this past July will absolutely go down in history.  As will the infamous maple cinnamon almond butter, both for its truly insane taste and for initiating my foray into the wonderful world of homemade nut butter.  And forevermore, the sight and taste of a ripe, succulent persimmon will remind me of these roasted winter root veg tacos, shared with good friends and family I hadn't seen in ages, a pure delight of distinct, bold, and perfectly complimentary flavors. 

My creation of these tacos was impelled by a serendipitous tasting at my local famers’ market in Los Angeles over the holidays.  It may go without saying, but I am a huge fan of free samples—especially if they’re of seasonal, quality produce, baked goods, or artisanal cheeses.  Meandering through the endlessly vibrant stalls of the market one Saturday, I happened upon a produce seller offering samples of persimmon (known as sharon fruit here in the UK).  I had only ever tasted persimmon once before in my life, as a child; I remembered the way it made my tongue feel like sandpaper, a bewitched fruit that mysteriously altered the sensorial chemistry of my mouth.  While this mildly traumatizing experience had averted me from the fruit for the following two decades of my life, I was now a new woman: adventuresome, eager, in love with food, and willing to take the risk.  I would taste it again. 

Sweet, succulent, and juicy, this fruit instantaneously worked its magic on me, but of an entirely different variety this time around.  I excitedly approached the grocer and bought more persimmons than I knew what to do with.  But I wasn’t concerned.  I knew I would figure something out.

The following evening, I had plans to cook dinner with a few friends.  Mulling over what would be fun and easy to make for a party of four, lightening suddenly struck: tacos, but with a twist.  They would have elements of traditional tacos (corn tortilla, black beans) but be rooted in the produce that was thriving at the moment. They would be persimmon tacos.  With beetroot.  And sweet potato.  A marriage of seasonal flavors, fruit and veg, fresh and roasted, bursting with color.  Being made in LA (which has the benefits of certain foodstuffs that are impossible to find in London), they would feature proper Mexican cheese.  Fresh cilantro and a creamy coconut sauce.  The layers of ideas were bubbling in my head. I simply couldn't wait to make them.

While these tacos require many individual bits to fully execute, they are worth all the effort--for their simultaneous freshness and warmth, their sweetness and zing, and the true explosion of flavor they produce with each eager bite. They provide a burst of color and a sheer joy of taste that will surely brighten up these cold, bleak winter days.

Roasted Root Vegetable Tacos (with Sweet Potato, Beetroot & Persimmon)

Serves two

Ingredients

4 soft corn tortillas, taco size (if you can't find small corn tortillas at your market, you can use the burrito sized ones and cut them into smaller rounds)

1 persimmon a.k.a. sharon fruit (ripe! not rock hard, like many in the UK are)

Queso fresco, cotija cheese, or crumbly goat cheese (optional)

fresh cilantro for garnish

Maple-Miso Sweet Potatoes, inspired by Love + Lemons

1 large or 2 small sweet potatoes, cut into 1" cubes

1/2 Tbsp. miso paste (organic, non-GMO; light or dark is fine)

1/2 Tbsp. pure maple syrup

Roasted Beetroot

3 medium beets

1 tsp. ground coriander

1/2 tsp. thyme

squeeze of 1/2 a lemon

Spiced Black Beans

1 15-oz can black beans (or you can cook them from dry if you have time!)

2 tsp. coconut oil (or cooking oil of choice)

1 small red onion, largely diced

2 garlic cloves, minced

1/2 tsp. smoked paprika

1/4 tsp. red chili flakes (or to taste)

(Coconut) Lime Cilantro Sauce -- great with the coconut or without

1/2 cup (4 oz) plain probiotic yogurt (make sure it has no additives, just yogurt)

3 Tbsp. unsweetened dried coconut (optional)

3 Tbsp. cilantro, leaves + stems finely minced

1 tsp. cold-pressed olive oil

1/2 lime, juice + zest

salt & pepper, to taste

Directions

1.  Make sauce.  If using coconut, heat oven to 350°F / 180°C / Gas 4.  Spread coconut on a baking tray and toast until lightly golden, 5-7 minutes.  Finely chop or mash with a mortar and pestle.  Once coconut is prepped, or if omitting, mix all sauce ingredients together.  For a smoother sauce, you can combine all the ingredients in a food processor, reserving olive oil to drizzle in and process at the end. Place in fridge to let flavors meld.

2.  Pre-heat oven to 400°F / 200°C / Gas 6.  

3.  Starting with the beetroot, cut off the stems and wash off any dirt (no need to peel).  Loosely wrap each beet in foil and set on a baking tray.  Roast for 50-60 minutes, checking every 20 minutes or so to make sure they aren't sticking to the tray or burning.  Beets are done when a fork slides into their middles easily.

4.  Once the beets are in the oven, chop your sweet potato into 1" cubes.  Place in a roasting tin, coat lightly with olive or coconut oil and sprinkle with salt.  Roast for 10-15 minutes, until just beginning to soften.

5.  Mix miso paste and maple syrup together.

6.  Remove sweet potato from oven, pour over the miso-maple marinade and toss to coat.  Roast sweet potato for an additional 10-15 minutes, until softened and caramelized. (I find that blasting them under the grill or broiler for the last 5 minutes of cooking produces a superior caramelization than cooking them in the oven the entire time.) Set aside.

7.  When the beets are cooked through, remove them from the oven and set aside to cool for a few minutes.  After they are cool enough to handle, use a paper towel and your thumbs to slide the skins off the beets.  They should come off quite easily.  If not, they may need a few more minutes in the oven.  

8.  Dice beets into 1" cubes.  Toss with ground coriander, thyme and lemon juice.  Set aside.

9.  Prepare black beans. In a saucepan on medium heat, sauté diced onion with oil until translucent, about 5 minutes.  Add garlic, paprika and chili flakes and cook for an additional 1 minute.  

10.  Drain and rinse black beans.  Add to saucepan with the onions and spices.  Stir to coat and cook until thoroughly warmed.  Set aside.

11.  Slice persimmon into strips.  Set aside.

12.  When ready to serve, heat tortillas in oven or directly over the flame on a gas stove, watching carefully to make sure they don't burn.  Top with beans, beetroot, sweet potato, cheese (if using), yogurt sauce and fresh cilantro.  Promptly devour!